Hi Ho Fanta!

I've been sitting on a dilemma since I started this journey; too many miles, not enough days. I paced myself in France but now the crunch has come.

With only 16 walking days and 21 stages to go, I needed to choose. Skip the Messita? Walk as far as I can and miss Santiago? None of the above! I chose the route of the second class pilgrim.

There are many tribes of pilgrim; the biggest bag camper, the big bag albergue, the small bag albergue and the small bag hotel..... but lowest of all is the cyclist. Completely without shame, they roll down hills..ROLL!!! As if this were a holiday! They make the Messita look like a dull afternoon.

Facing the option of a bus or fizzling out somewhere short of Astorga, I headed to the Logrono megamall and bought the cheapest bike I could find.

Fanta is a bright orange single speed steel bike with a heavy duty rack. She cost less than $200 all up and carries my gear admirably. Together, we knocked off two stages in an afternoon... a tough one though!

The morality is difficult but the church is clear on the matter; the bike is kosher. Will I feel guilt as I whip past those poor saps trudging the messita? Probably... but God will not judge me and I will get a bottom bunk.

A Pilgrim without Shoes

I woke at 5am keen for an early start only to discover that my shoes had left without me! A sorry state of affairs for a pilgrim.

Once the Albergue emptied, I collected the remaining shoes; a good 2 sizes smaller and impossible to wear. Luckily, I came with a pair of Crocs and they proved remarkably comfortable on the wide country paths as I set off after the culprit.

The forecast heat never really arrived and I raced past the fields and vineyards checking the feet of everyone I passed and searching every village.

It was over 25 kms of walking before I
finally caught up with a French couple. The woman had taken my shoes in the dark. They had waited 90 minutes in the previous town but I was 2 hours behind having had to wait until everyone had left in the morning.

She was terribly apologetic and I was just happy my mission paid off.
She bought me a coke in Viana and a Wine in Logrono.

l managed 40 kms and I learned that my Crocs are better for walking than my boots!

Hard Miles in Spain

I had hoped to make good progress in Spain but whilst the hills are gentler and the paths better made, the sun is all conquering.

Things start to heat up here around 10am and by afternoon the sun is relentless with plenty of bite left at 7 in the evening.

I arrived in Puenta La Reina with a touch of heat exhaustion. It was a Saints day and EVERYONE in the town was heading to the church so I joined them. I estimate 1000 people and standing room only. 20 minutes into the service, I had to leave or risk fainting.
Only a beer and a Menu del Peregrino could save this pilgrim.

The next day I managed 28 kms in an insane act of will. I have a hydration pack which I filled over 3 times; about 5 litres. Again I was weak until I'd loaded up on food, sugars and salt.

Pamplona

Pamplona is simply wonderful. The narrow streets packed with bars, restaurants and small shops radiating out from the grand Plaza del Castillo. I think it is the best city I have ever visited.

Last night was a Saturday night, two weeks before the festival of San Fermin and the town was throbbing with the most amazing street life. We chose a Hostal on Kalea San Gregorio which is probably the busiest strip of bars in town.

This would be madness ordinarily but a combination of tiredness and acceptance makes it easy for us pilgrims to sleep. We trawled the town for Pinxos (Tapas) wine and beer. We danced in a wild gay pride party and still managed to get to mass and bed by 11.

The street was still packed at 3am and probably till dawn. I woke at seven and photographed the empty street. I'm kicking myself I didn't take a photo with my phone the night before.

In Spain

Today was my first taste of Spain after over a month in France. I was also following in my footsteps from 2007 so it was hard not to make comparisons.

I was pretty upset to see so much new paving; the last thing a sore footed pilgrim needs. No doubt this was the inspired vision of some local bureaucrat funded by Brussels. Thankfully, it didn't extend into the beautiful woods. The other obvious problem was walking with 100+ walkers; many not really identifiable as pilgrims. It was also difficult to get away from the pack.

On the positive side, Tortilla for breakfast and 6€ Albergues. Great for the budget if you can tolerate the medieval conditions. Tonight it is a dorm of 14; bunks, and 2 showers between 50 people.

Camino Frances

Today we walked the Camino Frances. Along with a hundred or so others -less than I feared- Denis and I walked the difficult and isolated road across the Napoleon Pass into Spain.

The weather was a little disappointing but it didn't rain and visibility was such that we could get a sense of the peaks and valleys around us.

After a month walking in France, we managed quite well arriving before 4. Some of the new pilgrims were truly shattered and I felt sympathy for the English guy below me who had fallen into bed in his walking clothes: too tired to shower or change.

Roncesvalles has a modern new Albergue in place of the old Abbey. Instead of 150 pilgrims sleeping on old steel bunks in a cold abbey, we have modern IKEA style bunks separated into cells of 4, warm and rather tasteful. The purists will no doubt complain but I am pretty pleased. Wireless Internet too so I can update my blog.

It feels pretty exciting to be in Spain and starting again. Menu del Pelegrino tonight for 9€.... Lol.

St Jean Pied de Port

St Jean Pied de Port is the starting point for the Camino Frances through Spain and the end of my travels in France. I feel a great sense of achievement but also sadness to leave France. The people and the country have been wonderful and the road very peaceful.

The Camino Frances is now hugely popular and rumours abound of 5am starts and races for beds in the packed Albergues. I feel a little uneasy but my plan is to walk as far as Pamplona where I have the option of a train to Oviedo. This allows me to consider walking some of the Camino Del Norte or the Stunning but tough Camino Primitivo.

We arrived here at 2pm yesterday and watched as the town filled with young backpackers from all round the world. The Le Puy route is solidly a 50+ crowd so the difference is pretty striking. The numbers are big too though perhaps not as bad as I feared. I expect almost 200 people will walk through the pass into Spain tomorrow.

We stayed an extra day to rest but mainly in hope of better weather. Fine weather is coming but I think tomorrow will be cloudy like today. C'est la Vie, we walk regardless.

Tough Guys

The Gites and towns thin out as you approach the Spanish border. Although it is possible to stay in small rural Gites, Andre, Denis and I opted for three consecutive days of over
30 km.

Andre was a powerful walker on the Camino Frances 4 years ago and he hit the ground running on the grueling walk from Aire sur l'Adour to Arzacq. He took off whilst Denis and I looked for a shop and it took us most of the
day to catch him.

Denis was used to short days and
I kind of dragged him along; each day intimating that we might stop short but letting the day carry us on. In truth, I wanted our group to stay together because Andre was so joyous and Denis practical and someone I could talk with.

I think it turned out well and Denis lead the pack on the last two days. Alas, he bolted this morning on the
possibility that Andre wanted to pull 3
days into two.

Andre decided he needed to get to a Gite within one day of St Jean because he underestimated the days required. The proprieter of a Gite agreed to pick him up cutting 14km of the way. I didn't feel I could to this having walked all the way so far.

We parted company in glorious countryside 1 km from Arouie. I expect to catch Denis tomorrow.

New Friends and Old

I have been content to walk alone for the most part. My inability to speak French has made it difficult to tag along but I have also really appreciated the freedom and solitude of the Chemin.

Nevertheless, I have enjoyed the company of many lovely people on the road. There is something joyful and fulfilling about the meeting, parting and reconnecting with friends along the way.

I have spent many enjoyable hours with Monika and Ilsa from Stuttgart. They have been great company and flatter me by listening to my mangled German. They saved me from some loneliness in the first weeks but sadly have now returned home, having walked from Geneva; impressive!

I have spent days walking with Denis; a native of Quebec. He has been excellent company and his grasp of French and English a real bonus. I also have been crossing paths with three other Québécois; the charming Maria and her friends Nicole and Pierre.

I have also spent time with Jean-Yves, an ex social worker from Normandy; a powerful walker and quite a character. He left a few days ago to visit Lourdes but I suspect he will catch me up before St Jean.

Finally, my friend Andre who I met in Spain on my last Camino. His arrival has added a wonderful joie de vivre and Bonhomie to the path. He finds interest in everything and everyone and at 74, is still a formidable walker.

Hot Weather

A few days ago , I was outraged to pay 16 euros in a pharmacy for sunscreen. Today begins a spell of hot weather and the new cream has worked brilliantly; it applies like water but works all day.

Less impressive was my decision to push ahead 1 km without water. This ended up being 5 kms and left me with a massive headache on arrival in Condom. A sleep and tablets didn't work but coffee and beer did!

Moissac

My first real town since Cahor. Morning prayers at the abbey sung in harmony by the nuns. Very relaxing and inspiring way to start the day.

There is a very religious family that appear to be walking the Chemin. Perhaps it is just the father whilst mother and four young children travel another way.

She has the longest hair; as if it has never been cut. Here she and the kids are learning about the abbey from a nun.

Cahors

Perhaps it was just the long weekend but walking the Cele valley seemed like a break from the Chemin.

I was excited to be entering Cahor; one of the larger towns on the Le Puy route with about 20 000 inhabitants. Unfortunately, none of them seemed to be home on the Sunday I arrived and I was left with the disappointment of dozens of shops and cafes; almost all closed.

The cathedral was open of course to welcome me back to the more serious business of pilgrimage. Walking out the following day, it felt very much that I was back on the Camino.

Cele River Valley

I had heard that this variation on the path was very pretty and after so many mountains, I was ready for some nice river scenery. Little did I realize that the cruel designers of the GR system of walks would see fit to send us from river village to river village via the clifftops.

My increased confidence and a GPS meant I only put up with this for a day. From then on (and with a little advice), I made my own path along the river banks, the road and an old deserted railway line.

The valley is gorgeous with the river deep cut into limestone gorges. This area has seen human habitation for 20 000 years. There is something protected, benign and rich about the area. Good shelter with the cliffs and caves; good hunting with the river and fertile flats.

I stayed in my first Chambre d'Hote here and it was just wonderful. An English couple in search of a better life run this place packed with antiques. Food was excellent and nice to have a chat in English.

Rocamadour

My meeting date with Andre in Aire-Sur-L'Adour, gave me a few days up my sleeve so I decided to visit Rocamadour.

I did Rocamadour as a day trip from Figeac involving - joy of joys - a French train. The lady at the Tourist Office pointed out that Rocamadour village is almost 5 kms from the station.

As expected, the train was smooth and silent and the 5 km walk was a triffle with only my day pack.

Set on a cliff face overlooking a walled valley, Rocamadour comprises a medieval village leading up to a shrine and other religious structures rising again to a castle atop the cliff.

The chapel itself is incredibly powerful and was (is) one of the most visited sites in Christendom. It houses a Black Madonna which was at the centre of a huge medieval cult. The link is
Interesting reading.