Out in the sticks

At least this would be a French equivalent. 6 people per kilometer apparently though hardly remote by Australian standards.

Very few people speak English at all. Plenty of Germans though and they provide good company. Mostly though, I am content to walk alone.

Many French (and Germans) are out here on holidays and today I needed to book ahead for the first time. Tres Difficile.

The woman at the tourist office was beside herself dealing with some clueless Germans and myself. Her English was poor and the innkeepers were wanting to know if we had fleas.

All finished until Sunday and Conques. Time for a well earned beer and pizza and to rest my weary feet.

Aligot

I had been looking forward to this heart clogging speciality of the Aubrac region since I first read about it.

What's not to like about mashed potatoe, creme fraiche and cheese mixed to the consistency of bubble gum.

This could set a dangerous precedent.

After a 32.5 km day.....Paradise

I am laying on a big soft bed after an epic day; smelling food being prepared in the kitchen. I have never felt so comfortable in my life.

From Saugues to Saint Alban is 32.5 kms of the most gorgeous countryside... Forested hills giving way to lush pastures and the most wonderful flowering herbs. Content cows, wonderful old homes and barns, friendly relaxed people.. You get the picture.

Tonight I stay with some young alternative lifestyle types who have opened their home to pilgrims such as myself. Donation only mind you the Madame suggests a minimum 25 Euros and would no doubt be unimpressed that such a well fed pilgrim would skimp.

Walking

The rhythm of walking washed away all my uncertainties. The day was warm and perfect and the scenery spectacular. The sounds and smell of the countryside were magic and had the effect of truly grounding me for the first time.

I had some wonderful company for the first hour or so. A 75 plus year old local accompanied me. His English was excellent but his fitness was truly exceptional. He does the climb up out of Le Puy (Steep!!!) everyday but he also attributes his vigour to refusing to use computers (Ordinature) and Internet. His friends have computers and have become soft. So there you have it.

Paris by bicycle

Paris has discovered the bicycle since last I was here. The Paris scheme was a model for Melbourne and works well since they have no law requiring use of helmets. Uptake is good and the system is extensive.

I chose to do a guided bicycle tour of the city. Our guide was a local activist and would be musician who carried his guitar on our ride. He played us People are Strange on Jim Morrison's door step but he made up for this transgression with his deep knowledge of the city and it's history.

The Long Haul

I found myself thinking 'Never Again' a few times last night. I knocked back a few G&Ts in Singapore; a last taste of corporate largesse from Hay Group and the Qantas Club, and braced myself for the cruel second leg of my flight. After the rubbish movies I think I got a couple of hours sleep. The night was tough and I had a few moments of fear of flying... The whole thing doesn't bear thinking about really... A tangled wreck of metal plunged into a dark ocean. Perhaps the bug splattered on the 'skycam' at take off triggered my gloomy thoughts.

Day is so much better and an hour out of London, I'm feeling fresh and positive. The cramped conditions a metaphor for my desk job, I'm itching to stretch my legs and start walking. Fill myself with air, sun, rain and get fit!

Final preparations

Of course no trip to Santiago would be complete without first visiting my sister Jenny who is the family expert having walked the entire Camino in 2009.

Here the Jens discuss modern art over a cocktail at the amazing MONA gallery in Hobart.

Thanks for the very cool walking sticks Jenny! 

 

I leave tomorrow and I'm happy that I have everything I need... and perhaps a few things I dont. I haven't done the final weigh in yet but I am confident I am under 10 kilos.

My preparations have been less than perfect which isn't surprising given all the stresses of this past year. Genevieve, Aidan and I took a walk on Mt Alexander yesterday. Ouch! I was puffing away after 500 metres and my legs are sore today. I seem to recall I wasn't much fitter last time so I'm not too concerned.

Tomorrow at 3.30 PM I will fly out on a Qantas A380 to London. This is something I am very excited about being an aircraft nerd from way back. I have been lobbying my friend Catie who's sister works for Qantas. "get me a BED!, I want the BED" but I think an upgrade to first class is akin to a lotto win. I will have to make do but I do understand that it is quieter and the air less dry than other aircraft. Also, it has an excellent entertainment system so I'm looking forward to a movie marathon.

Next post will be from my phone assuming it will work in France. I bought a blogger app which does the trick though formatting is simpler.

Au revoir!