Like Clockwork

My anxiety was high as I prepared to face The Office of Tourism in Figeac. Nothing here scares me more and past encounters have ranged from uncomfortable to awful.

I am that lowest of creatures, a budget traveler without passable French.

Fortunately, the woman at Figeac was good natured with excellent English. Between us, we executed a Tour de Force of bookings combining Train timetables, public holidays (Mon Dieu!), a long weekend and ....une Variante!!! (Sacré bleu. Est impossible!!!)

Tomorrow I visit Rocamadour by train (30 minutes) and for the four days after, I walk the Cele river variant... Very pretty apparently.

The Hobbit leaves Rivendell

As I walked away from Conques this morning, I followed a group of ladies singing the most gorgeous harmonies. I was reminded of my favorite childhood book - Lord of the Rings - and how the Elves would sing as they journeyed across the land.

There is something elemental about a journey by foot and the countryside here is powerfully evocative, all wood stone and iron. The weight of time and habitation. Everything blends so wonderfully.

Conques itself is a wonder. Anyone who has hauled a few rocks around can't help but be awestruck by the undertaking, let alone the artistry.

I do sometimes feel like a country cousin here. When I think of Little Dixie (Harcourt) and my wonderful shed.... Now just imagine what a few rocks might do....

Crippled in Conques

I limped into Conques yesterday with a painful blister and aching legs; grateful for the rest day I had planned. Sadly it means I lose my first cohort of travel companions.

Conques is gorgeous; perhaps a little too much so with the rich keeping summer homes and the like. Apparently it was not particularly well visited 10 years ago or more but the Chemin has brought it notoriety.

The Abbey is wonderful; vast and simple. Organ music in the evening by one of the monks including, of all things, variations on the Animals' House of the Rising Sun. Incredible!

The Feet

My poor feet have taken a battering these past few days. Today was the worst; two blisters and aching in every joint ( and there are many). I feel like I have visited a psychotic shiatsu master; every stone and twist some kind of demented massage.

We met the Lot river today at St Come d'olt; a gorgeous little medieval town. Sadly the lunatic who laid out this part of the trail had us leave the river and reclimb a mountain only to return, footsore and weary in Espalion two hours later. Espalion is, of course , less than an hour away by a flat riverside walk.

I present for you, a photo of the Madonna which was presumably the reason for such a detour. A coin operated telescope by the river would gave suited me fine.

Out in the sticks

At least this would be a French equivalent. 6 people per kilometer apparently though hardly remote by Australian standards.

Very few people speak English at all. Plenty of Germans though and they provide good company. Mostly though, I am content to walk alone.

Many French (and Germans) are out here on holidays and today I needed to book ahead for the first time. Tres Difficile.

The woman at the tourist office was beside herself dealing with some clueless Germans and myself. Her English was poor and the innkeepers were wanting to know if we had fleas.

All finished until Sunday and Conques. Time for a well earned beer and pizza and to rest my weary feet.

Aligot

I had been looking forward to this heart clogging speciality of the Aubrac region since I first read about it.

What's not to like about mashed potatoe, creme fraiche and cheese mixed to the consistency of bubble gum.

This could set a dangerous precedent.

After a 32.5 km day.....Paradise

I am laying on a big soft bed after an epic day; smelling food being prepared in the kitchen. I have never felt so comfortable in my life.

From Saugues to Saint Alban is 32.5 kms of the most gorgeous countryside... Forested hills giving way to lush pastures and the most wonderful flowering herbs. Content cows, wonderful old homes and barns, friendly relaxed people.. You get the picture.

Tonight I stay with some young alternative lifestyle types who have opened their home to pilgrims such as myself. Donation only mind you the Madame suggests a minimum 25 Euros and would no doubt be unimpressed that such a well fed pilgrim would skimp.